Sewing at the Highest Level: Techniques Used in Bespoke Tailoring
Mastering the art of bespoke tailoring goes far beyond pattern drafting and fittings—it requires exceptional sewing skills and a deep understanding of advanced sewing techniques. During my mentorship with Allan, I had the opportunity to refine my sewing craftsmanship and learn techniques that are rarely taught in conventional sewing courses or even fashion schools.
One of the key aspects of bespoke tailoring is precision sewing. Every stitch is intentional, contributing to the overall durability, structure, and aesthetic of the garment. I learned how to work with various interfacings, canvases, and linings that give bespoke garments their signature shape and longevity. Hand-sewn details, such as pad stitching on lapels, allow the fabric to mold naturally over time, enhancing the fit and drape. Unlike industrial garments that rely on glue-based fusible interfacings, bespoke tailoring retains a sense of craftsmanship that ensures the garment ages beautifully with wear.
Additionally, Allan introduced me to specialized sewing techniques that elevate the construction of bespoke garments. I learned the importance of hand-basting, a temporary stitching technique that allows for flexibility and adjustment throughout the tailoring process. I also practiced sewing precision buttonholes by hand, an art form in itself, as well as blind hemming and shaping collars and cuffs for a more natural roll. These techniques take significantly more time than mass-production methods, but they ensure the highest level of quality and fit.
One of the biggest takeaways from my training was understanding what is missing in Calgary’s sewing education landscape. There is currently no institution or sewing school that offers training in these highly specialized skills, making this mentorship an incredibly valuable and unique experience. Not only did I expand my own skill set, but I am now equipped to teach these techniques to my students, ensuring that the next generation of sewists and tailors can access this knowledge.
The sewing techniques I’ve acquired through this mentorship have allowed me to improve my garment-making abilities significantly. While I am not yet offering custom garments for clients, I see this as a future possibility. For now, my focus is on bringing these advanced skills to my students, ensuring that those who are passionate about sewing can access the highest level of craftsmanship without having to leave Calgary.