Fittings: The Art of Personalization
Nothing is as serious about the proper fit as bespoke tailoring.
Do you know what doesn’t go out of style? Fit.
The true magic of bespoke tailoring happens during the fitting process, where a garment is shaped to the client’s exact body, ensuring an unparalleled fit and comfort. Unlike ready-to-wear clothing, which is made to generic sizes, bespoke tailoring requires a minimum of three fittings to achieve perfection.
Fit is the only element of fashion that never goes out of style. While trends shift and silhouettes evolve, a well-fitting garment is timeless. Bespoke tailoring has been around since the 17th century, with Savile Row in London emerging as the global hub for the craft in the late 18th century. Despite centuries of fashion revolutions, bespoke tailoring remains the gold standard because it prioritizes the individual. Unlike mass-produced clothing that forces people to conform to standard sizes, bespoke garments are crafted to highlight each person’s unique proportions, making them look and feel their absolute best.
The first fitting involves the garment being roughly assembled without details like pockets, linings, or buttons. At this stage, the tailor focuses on the overall fit and balance, making initial adjustments to the shoulder slope, sleeve position, and body shaping. The second fitting includes these refinements, along with the addition of details such as pockets, lapels, and linings. This stage ensures that everything falls into place correctly. Finally, the third and final fitting is where minor finishing touches are made, ensuring the garment fits flawlessly before it is completed.
Throughout my training, I had the opportunity to observe and participate in Allan’s client fittings, learning how he identifies subtle adjustments that enhance both fit and function. Something as simple as shaving a few millimeters off a sleeve, adjusting the drape of a jacket, or refining a trouser break can dramatically impact how a garment looks and feels. Allan taught me to recognize these necessary refinements, helping me develop a trained eye for perfecting fit. This knowledge will not only improve my own sewing but also help me teach more advanced tailoring techniques to my students in the future.