What is Bespoke? Origins, Meaning, and Misconceptions
Bespoke tailoring is the pinnacle of garment craftsmanship, a process that is deeply rooted in tradition and artistry. The term “bespoke” originates from Savile Row in London, where master tailors have been crafting custom garments for centuries. Unlike ready-to-wear or even made-to-measure clothing, bespoke garments are entirely handmade from scratch, created to perfectly fit the individual’s body, needs, and personal style. Every element—from the pattern drafting to the final stitching—is meticulously customized for the wearer.
What are the standards that have to be met to call something bespoke?
To be considered bespoke, a garment must meet a set of traditional standards. Some of these include:
Personal Consultation: The customer undergoes a detailed consultation with the tailor to discuss design, fabric, and fit. This is typically a one-on-one interaction with a skilled craftsman.
Handcraftsmanship: A bespoke suit is largely hand-sewn. It involves numerous handcrafting techniques, such as hand-stitched seams, hand-padded shoulders, and hand-finished hems. This distinguishes it from ready-to-wear or made-to-measure, where more machine sewing is involved.
Multiple Fittings: A bespoke garment goes through several fittings (typically two or three) where adjustments are made to ensure a perfect fit. The first fitting usually involves a rough fitting where the basic shape and structure are assessed, and subsequent fittings refine the fit.
Unique Pattern: The tailor creates a unique pattern for each client based on their measurements, posture, and preferences. This pattern is kept on file for future garments.
Customization Options: Every detail, from the choice of fabric to the button placement, collar style, lapel shape, and more, is customizable to the client’s specifications.
Fit and Cut: The garment is cut to the client’s exact specifications, ensuring a silhouette that complements their body shape.
Is there a list of standards to be met?
There is no universally enforced list of standards, but the Savile Row Bespoke Association provides guidelines for what constitutes a true bespoke garment. Members of this association adhere to the highest standards of bespoke tailoring, and the Association sets out the craftsmanship, fitting process, and bespoke principles.
For example, Savile Row Bespoke outlines a commitment to handcraftsmanship, a thorough fitting process, and the creation of a unique pattern for each customer. The association also maintains strict standards about quality, which their members must follow.
One common misconception about bespoke tailoring is that it is simply about luxury or exclusivity. While it is true that bespoke garments require significant time and expertise, what truly sets them apart is their functionality, durability, and craftsmanship. A bespoke garment is designed to fit the wearer perfectly, accommodating their unique posture, body proportions, and movement patterns. This level of precision ensures comfort and longevity—a well-made bespoke suit can last decades with proper care. It is a dying art in many parts of the world, but thanks to tailors like Allan David Sinclair of Allan David Bespoke, this tradition continues to thrive.
